Archive for the 'Seoul' Category

driftreality

Mogey Mogey!

I teach one class that originally consisted of eight or nine students, but has since diminished to more like five or six, after their Mothers realized that they were essentially paying for a course in coloring, hosted by a depressed foreigner.

There was a fly buzzing around in the class one day, and I couldn’t help but become attentive to the fact that one of the students, Bill, had a keen aversion to the small intruder.

He started cringing and screeching, “Mogey! Mogey!” which is Korean for “Bug! Bug!” - everytime the fly buzzed near him.

The class would promptly erupt into chaos at this point so I decided that our intruder should meet his end and I smashed him with one of the English books, depositing his body in the trashcan.

I turned to the class after my action and saw that Bill had turned white with fear.

Later, while they were coloring, I grabbed a black crayon and broke off a three or four centimeter chunk. Then, I requested the students’ attention and pretended to reach into the trashcan for the dead fly carcass.

I yelled “mogey” and tossed the small piece of black crayon onto the table and everyone began to go into hysterics. Bill started making a high-pitched noise and I sat down next to him in order to console him.

Meanwhile, Rich had found the black piece of crayon and began stamping on it in an effort to ease Bill’s fears.

Bill returned to his seat and I leaned back in my chair and sighed, “Mogey, mogey.” For some odd reason, this seemed to set Bill on edge once again, and before I knew it, Rich was joining in, saying, “Mogey, mogey,” and wiggling his fingers strangely in Bill’s direction, who had begun to make a high-pitched sound once again.

Bill jumped out of his seat and hid behind me, while yelling a stream of words at Rich that I can only imagine, in Korean. It was about this time that I realized that it was coloring time.

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Life Gets a Little Boring in Seoul

In some ways, this piece expresses me settling into a somewhat boring groove in Seoul - not stressful; not tremendously exciting. The music is from Buddy Guy’s album, Buddy’s Blues.

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Telephone Interviews

During my nine months at my Hawkwan, I came to realize that the supervisors and the general approach to education were absolutely insane. The first two indications of just how ludicrous a situation I had committed myself to when I signed the Hawkwan contract came when I found out about weekly telephone interviews and our monthly student progress reports.

As part of ECC’s holistic approach to the study of the English language, students were to receive one phone call/week from native English speaking instructors and one progress report/month, complete with both quantitative and qualitative analysis of their performance.

I was fortunate in that the supervisors came me a month to adjust, before handing me a folder that contained all the pertinent information for making my telephone interview calls, and telling me that my monthly progress reports would be due at the end of the week. I personally think that they wanted to try and mediate the amount of craziness that they allowed me to comprehend so that I would not make a break for it early on. Oh no, they wanted to wait until I got settled in before letting me realize how freakish my existence was.

After month one, I received my telephone interview folder and was told that I would have to make phone calls to the students once/week. Admittedly, this practice was actually beneficial to the five or so students who were competent enough to carry on a polysyllabic conversation in English. For the other three hundred or so students, it was a complete waste of time.

My first call was a six-year-old girl, whose English name was “Suzie.” It was my responsibility to call her on the phone and ask her five simple questions, which were provided to me. Upon receiving her answers, I had to write her them down so that the Korean teachers could monitor their progress. It seemed simple enough, but in reality, it was a struggle. Initially, I was extremely patient with the students and made every effort to grind through the short list of questions.

A typical conversation would go as follows:

Suzie’s Mom: Yoboseyo?
Jiyan: Hello?
Suzie’s Mom: (in Korean) Oh, this must be Suzie’s teacher.
Jiyan: What? I’m sorry, I don’t speak Korean.
Suzie’s Mom: (in Korean) Okay, let me get Suzie.
Jiyan: I’m looking for Suzie. Hello?
(after a few moments Suzie picks up the phone)
Suzie: Hello:
Jiyan: Hi Suzie, this is Jiyan teacher?
Suzie: Hello?
Jiyan: Yes, I would like to talk to you. How are you?
Suzie: Fine thank you, and you?
Jiyan: Fine, thank you. So Suzie, what are you doing?
Suzie: Hello?
Jiyan: Yes, what are you doing right now Suzie?
Suzie: I am fine.
Jiyan: No, I’m not asking you how you’re doing, I’m asking you what you are doing?
Suzie: Hello?
Jiyan: Suzie, what are you doing now?
Suzie: Television.
Jiyan: You are watching television?
Suzie: Yes.
Jiyan: What are you watching?
Suzie: What?
Jiyan: What is it that you are watching right now Suzie?
Suzie: What?
Jiyan: What time is it right now Suzie?
Suzie: Teacher?

As you can see, the conversations were a waste of our time. Unfortunately, the supervisors and I did not see eye to eye on this situation and I was obligated to continue the telephone interviews. The supervisors did mention that I would be allowed to alter the content of the telephone conversations. In a typically mature fashion, I gradually found a way to entertain myself during the telephone interviews and after several months, I had found a format that was much more suitable to my tastes.

Suzie’s Mom: Yoboseyo?
Jiyan: Yo yo yo! It’s Jiyan.
Suzie’s Mom: (in Korean) Just a minute please.
Suzie: Hello teacher.
Jiyan: Hey there girl, what have you been up to lately?
Suzie: Teacher?
Jiyan: Yeah, I know, teacher, that’s right. Well, I’m glad you asked how I’m doing because I’m doing superb. I met a girl the other night, she is fly!
Suzie: Teacher?
Jiyan: Yeah, so, do you like pizza?
Suzie: Yes teacher.
Jiyan: Yeah, anyway, this girl is a lingerie model. Can you believe it? She has got a body like you cannot believe. I mean, she makes me want to do things unheard of, you know what I’m saying? By the way, do you like hamburgers?
Suzie: Yes teacher.
Jiyan: Anyway, things are going all right at school you know. The won is dropping all the time, what’s up with that? What’s up with your all’s currency?
Suzie: Teacher?
Jiyan: Don’t play innocent with me girl! I know you have something to do with it!
Suzie: What?
Jiyan: No, I’m just playing, I don’t think you have anything to do with the depreciation of the won. Anyway, what is hotter, soup or ice cream?
Suzie: Soup is hotter than ice cream.
Jiyan: Yeah, speaking of soup, I’m going to try and call that girl up tonight. What do you think? Should I wait longer and let her roast a while or should I just call her up tonight?
Suzie: Teacher? I don’t know.
Jiyan: Yeah, well thanks for the advice, you better hit the bricks soon you know? By the way, do you like ice cream?
Suzie: Yes teacher.
Jiyan: Cool.

driftreality

Update - March 1, 2001

I’m going through this absolutely awful phase right now. My shoulders are aching, there is a raw pain on my left tonsil and everything seems to annoy me immensely. The thought of my girlfriend only brings to mind the garlic that I smelled on her breath last night. I feel as though I want to scream at the top of my lungs and plunge my fists into the wall. A second later, I feel as if I want to lie upon a hard mattress and fall asleep for ten hours.

Dong-mi came over last night and I was so full of medication that I started to blab on about all my fears and sacred thoughts. As the red wine began to infuse me with warmth, I started to divulge my most abnormal secrets: How I was convinced that because things were going well for me, it meant that things would inevitably fall. I told her “Things would be worse soon.” I also told her about my youth, my struggles with a fractures self-image and my attempts to reach out for a world that I couldn’t quite get a hold of. Later, when we were lying in bed, she said, “How can I live when you leave?” I thought about it and it scared me that if I did not respond, it would mean I was another in a long succession of failed relationships with her. So I said, “Yeah, but you have your job, and your good friends.” I cringed as she laughed sadly to herself.

I have this image in my mind of the place I would love to be right now and it is my friend’s house on the Chesapeake Bay. I spent a week there right before I came to Korea. The house sits atop a crest that descends down into one of the many outlets of the Chesapeake Bay. From the backyard of the house, a person can see a view framed by large oaks, of the river and the bank on the other side. I remember this view like a dream - you walk down steps that are rectangular logs stamped into the ground at regular intervals, surrounded by foliage and trunks. Suddenly, the path opens and the color changes from green to blue. The path turns into a slanted walkway that winds into a thin dock.

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MI

Even after the fact, he could not seem to remove her eyes from inside of his mind. He remembered arriving at the club with Laura and immediately heading for the bar. He removed his heavy leather jacket and passed it across the bar to a girl with a chubby face on the other side.

He wanted to start dancing immediately and grabbing Laura’s hand, he weaved his way into the crowd of dancers. The pulsating rhythm was absorbed by his stomach, which sent the vibrations upwards - towards his head causing it to bob up and down in rhythm with the beat. All of the dancers in the room were facing the DJ but he turned his back on them so that he could face Laura as he danced with her.

He began to bob his hips the way that his old girlfriend had taught him. “You dance with your shoulders too much, you have to dance with your hips more,” she would say. He couldn’t argue because she looked pretty sexy when she danced whereas he looked like a guy who doesn’t feel comfortable dancing.

He closed his eyes and counted “one-two one-two,” trying to establish a feeling of rhythm in his body. His eyes fluttered and he caught a glimpse of a trio of what seemed like very attractive girls in the corner. They were dressed in that more fashionable, Apkujon-esque style which consisted of apparel that resembled business attire. He felt that they were talking about him because one of them leaned her head over to the other and pointed in his direction. He turned his eyes away quickly and looked at Laura. She was smiling at him and he smiled back at her.

Her face was quite appealing in this club but he knew that sometimes, when he examined her in the light, he could make out a forest of imperfections in the regions directly under and above her eyes. Her eyes themselves were cute when she smiled, but when her face was emotionless they seemed awfully small and beady. He smiled again and closed his eyes and tried to feel the rhythm: “one-two one-two.”

Soon, the trio was out of his mind and he was indulging in the music. Gradually, his body began to feel tired and he told Laura that he wanted to get a drink. She agreed and they headed towards the bar. One of the girls from the trio entered the periphery of his vision and he could not help but turn to look at her as she walked past. She stared directly into his eyes with a slight smile on her lips. Her eyes flickered with mischief and he found himself turning away quickly, but still thinking about her eyes. There was something peculiar about the way that they were shaped. They were thin at the corners but very large and round in the middle. They filled him with an odd type of excitement.

He looked towards the bartender, who was helping another customer. He strained his head and rotated it up and around, as if he was stretching out his neck, and his eyes alit on the girl once again. She was standing there, looking straight into his eyes. She had straight black hair that fell onto her shoulders and perfectly smooth skin. She had a small nose and above it were those exquisite eyes.

A smile creased onto his face and he turned his head away. He looked up at the bartender and ordered his drink.

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Jessica

Jessica is one of my older students, she is about fourteen. She comes to class everyday and sits with her friends and gossips sometimes, but she listens most of the time. She laughs at my humor, most of the time it is comments I don’t expect any of them to understand, and this tells me that she listens to me more than I think.

Maybe sometimes, when she is indulging in the trivialities, which surround her, she is casting sideward glances in my direction.

She is cute and she will be beautiful perhaps one day. She is tall and as a result, somewhat lanky because she has not completely acquired a talent for grace, but she is getting there. When her friends do not have the capability, or the confidence to speak to me, sometimes she explains to me on their behalf in excellent English.

I decided to take her and her classmates to McDonalds one day, and as we were seated, munching our burgers, I noticed a bruise on her face, right below her cheek.

“Did you fall or something?” I ask but she just looks down at her French fries and doesn’t say anything.

One of her classmates turns to her and places her hand on her shoulder.

It is not the first time that I’ve seen this blue circle on the face of a student.

Every time I inquire about it’s origin, I am met with an expression that seems to echo in my mind because I have seen it in the past and the future. The look disappears though and it is soon forgotten in a haze of gossip.

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Singing in Korea

During the course of the year that I would spend in Korea, the practice of singing and dancing with children would be one of the largest hurdles that I would face. At times, I felt absolutely ridiculous, gyrating my hips and waving my arms in the air to classic hits such as “This Old Man,” or “Hokey Pokey.”

At first, I absolutely refused to participate in singing and dancing with the children. At these moments, I could not help but reflect upon the fact that I had spent the previous year discussing subjects such as the relative merits of Aristotelian philosophy or the aesthetic practices resident in Citizen Kane.

Not only had I done these things, but I had also paid, or rather my parents had paid, $30,000/year in order to be in this situation. I could not accept that one year later, I would be chanting “you put your right foot in, you put your right foot out,” with a bunch of five year olds while shaking my hips in unison to the music.

Over time, I accepted the idea that singing was acceptable. After all, I did minor in music and this was an opportunity to help young children learn about music. Furthermore, it became an extremely useful tool in helping me to devise new and innovative ways of passing time before the class ended.

After I made the first concession, it was only a matter of time until the tallest student in the class and I were forming the bridge in “London Bridge” while I blared the lyrics to the song at the top of my lungs.

driftreality

Update - January 24, 2001

Today is the 24th of January, the solar New Year. It is a Wednesday and Gordon, Justin, Yumi(Gordon’s girlfriend), and I will head to the coastal city of Inchon which is only about one hour South of Seoul. It is so close that you can actually take the subway there.

Although I’ve spent quite a few hours at the PC bang, this vacation has not been an absolute waste of time. Yesterday I purchased a compilation of short stories by Chekhov and I’ve managed to read one of them. That isn’t much of an accomplishment actually.

Anyway, I went to Insa-dong, in central-northern Seoul on Monday with Dong-Mi. It was very nice and to my amusement, there was a lady with a monkey seated outside of the subway station. The monkey was wearing sweat pants and a cheap looking shirt. He was seated in a chair with his hands on his knees. The lady was wearing some type of large black boots. Later on, Dong-Mi commented that she got a bad feeling from the lady and I must concur. The lady hit the monkey on several occasions but otherwise remained seated with the exact same look on her face the whole time like she was a robot or something like that. I mentioned to Dong-Mi that another weird thing about the lady, besides the uncomfortable aura that she exuded, was the fact that her profession included working a monkey co-worker. Anyway, the lady banged on a makeshift percussion instrument(an old cymbal set and some damaged steel drums). But the monkey refused to imitate her action, instead making gestures with its hands, waving them up and down in front of the collection box. The action was amusing at first, but the damn critter kept making them after six or seven people had deposited money in the box.

Although we left without hearing the monkey play the instrument, we did get to watch the lady hand it a cigarette and it proceed to stick the cigarette in its mouth and pretend to smoke. Only in Korea.

There was a main walkthrough which was probably about twenty feet wide. It was also one of the few walkways in which cars were prohibited, to my delight. On either side there were an assortment of art shops, furniture store, and authentic Korean apparel stores.

Another teacher at ECC named Mike is dating a girl named Jin Young. The two of them have a rather strange relationship. Mike once told me that even after she ate some spicy Korean dish, he remembers kissing her and detecting no odor, which is almost impossible considering the content in most Korean dishes.

He told me that, “She was like an angle.” He is always holding her bag for her and offering to do little things for her like buying tapoki for her at the corner stand if she is ever hungry.

He is also constantly getting angry with her and blaming her for all sorts of things. To his defense, I’m not sure she is as much of an angel as he claims she is, but I think he knows this also.

She is very flirtatious and she often downplays the importance of their relationship, making claims like, “She doesn’t care about him and she doesn’t mind if he leaves her.”

It’s just strange.

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PC Bang

Earlier that day I had asked Jake if there was any way I could get access to the internet, in order to send an e-mail back to my family, telling them that I had arrived safely. So after we left the school that evening, we headed towards the Star PC-Bang. This was my first venture into the world of Korean PC-Bang culture, a strange sort of phenomenon that snatched me into its grip, condemning me to countless hours of Internet chat, video games, and mindless web surfing.

The PC Bang in Korea is a sort of technology age church, in which tens of thousands of young Koreans indulge in all manners of online interactions. The generic PC-Bang is a single room equipped with an average of about twenty computers, a coffee vending machine, a snack bar stocked with Ramyen and a Korean version of Slim-jims that tastes like fish.

Behind the front counter is a selection of about 10-20 video games that the PC-Bang patron can choose from, which is really ornamental in nature, seeing as how Koreans only play three computer games: Warcraft, Diablo 2, and Lineage. There are also a wide variety of internet-based games that Koreans play such as Fortress (which Koreans pronounce “Portress”) and Tetris.

In the United States, there is an image of the stereotypical video game aficionado as being a teenage male with acne, who really has no alternative but to play video games. In Korea, this image is non-existent. Although the majority of PC-Bang fanatics are males, there is normally a sizeable minority of females present at any given time. With regard to age, the youngest patrons are about five years old and the oldest tend to be in their mid to late twenties.

We walked into the Star PC-Bang and a young Korean man with a genuine smile greeted us. Blake told me that his name was “Pak-chal,” but somehow I heard “Puckchuck,” and this was what I ended up calling him for several months.

There were about five or six people in the PC-Bang, all smoking cigarettes as they clicked away to their heart’s content. There was a Caucasian male seated near us and Blake approached him and laid his hand on the man’s shoulder. The man exclaimed and turned around in surprise.

He had wild blue eyes, a brown pony tail, and an overbite that reminded me of how a shark’s mouth looks when examined from underneath.

“Oh man, you scared me,” he said. “You got to watch it, it’s a good thing I caught myself because half the time I would have busted the person by now. Don’t ever come up from behind me like that again.”

This was Bill. He was a thirty year old from Manhattan who had taught at my Institute for six months before quitting and returning home. After realizing that he didn’t really have a whole lot going for him at home, he returned to Korea and was supporting himself by teaching private lessons. He lived in a small one-room apartment near the airport, which he described as being roughly the size of a closet.

As I grew to know Bill, I became aware that he had two main hobbies: telling crazy stories and playing video games for obscenely large amounts of time. He also happened to be a passionately loyal friend and probably would have taken a bullet for Jake if presented with the opportunity.

driftreality

Teaching English

From the moment that I first stepped into a classroom, I was a step behind. I had watched how several of the Korean teachers had conducted their classes and I decided to model my approach as being the antithesis of theirs’. This was a mistake. I saw the manner in which they answered questions like robots, did their assignments like robots, and even kind of looked like little robots. I saw all of these things and I decided that I would be their savior. I would be the one who would allow them to explore their creative juices and experience life to the fullest. I would be the one that they would remember when they were famous artists, and musicians, and writers.

When they messed around, I would laugh at their antics and encourage them to full around more. If they were overly quiet, I would carry on like a clown until they broke into a smile and eventually started laughing. I thought that I was breathing life into them but without realizing it, I was planting the seeds that would lead to my ultimate demise.

My Parade 5 class was a prime example of this situation. When I walked into the class on my first day at my Hawkwan, the six students in Parade 5 looked at me as though I had blood red eyes and horns. They sat upright in their chairs, refused to speak unless I asked them a direct question, and generally looked miserable.

The daily lesson called for me to teach them the meanings of the words “healthy” and “unhealthy,” and to get them to make sentences out of these words. The teacher’s guide recommended making sentences about different types of food, such as “eating fruit is healthy,” “eating candy is unhealthy.”

I would draw a picture of a food, such as an apple, and then ask them, “What is this?”

“It is an apple” they would respond.

I would continue our stimulating conversation by asking, “Is this healthy or unhealthy to eat?”

They would reply in a robotic tone, “eating an apple is healthy.”

I would follow this response by drawing a picture of a lollipop on the board and asking, “what is this?”

They would then respond by saying “it is a lollipop.”

Of course, my insatiable curiosity would compel me to ask, “is this healthy or unhealthy to eat?”

And they would then answer, “it is unhealthy to eat.”

I began to feel an intense anguish simmer within me after proceeding in this manner for several minutes, and then a little devil crawled onto my shoulder and forced my hand, which had been drawing a picture of a healthy banana, to instead draw a picture of a little robot.

“What is this?” I asked them.

They looked at each other in confusion, and then Jessica, one of the brighter students in the class answered, “It is a robot.”

“Good, now, is it healthy or unhealthy to eat?”

Complete silence filled the room. I looked on the faces of my Korean students and knew that I had accomplished what I wanted to accomplish. I answered for them:

“Eating robots is unhealthy!”

The class stared at me, completely befuddled by this strange foreigner who had just walked into the room and insisted that robots did not compose part of a healthy diet. I narrowed my eyes at the unfortunately named Steve, and asked him, “Do you eat robots?”

He began to look frightened and his head darted to the side where his friend Eric, a heavyset boy who slightly resembled a sumo wrestler, was seated.

I followed his gaze to Eric and asked Eric the same question.

“Do you eat robots?”

Eric shook his head but did not say anything. Finally, I turned to look at Jessica, upon whose face had slowly crept a hint of a smile.

“Teacher, eating robots is unhealthy,” she said as her smile grew in proportion. She followed her sentence with an oddly leprechaun-like giggle and then promptly fell silent.

“That’s right Jessica! Eating robots is unhealthy.”

During the remainder of the lesson, I managed to discern that amongst the various food items that one feel inclined to consume, the following were considered healthy: snow, rain, trees, cows, monkeys, and grass. Conversely, my Parade class felt that the following items were considered unhealthy to eat: robots, houses, cars, trains, and for some odd reason, rabbits.

During the course of the lesson, the smiles eventually grew and slowly evolved into mild laughter. Soon, the entire class was raising their hands enthusiastically. I left the class feeling thoroughly satisfied that I had managed to both entertain and enlighten my students at the same time.

Not all of the classes went so well. My last class of the day was entitled “Expressways 2.” The class was composed of twelve thirteen year olds who had just gotten into the Hawkwan system, meaning there English was slightly above non-existent. I walked into the class and was suddenly immersed in a whirlwind of hoarse laughter and high pitched squealing.

Still disturbed by the display that Augustus had put on earlier in the day, I decided to attempt to discipline the class independently.

“Excuse me,” I said. They did not even look at me.

“Excuse me,” I repeated, this time in a slightly raised voice. Once again, I was completely ignored.

“Hey!” I blurted. To my utter astonishment, even my exclamation went completely unnoticed as they sat and proceeded to ignore me with stunning efficiency.

I shrugged my shoulders, sat down and opened up my book, turning to the lesson that they we were supposed to review that day.

“Okay everybody, lets turn to page 75″ I blared in my loudest and most dominant baritone voice. A few of the girls opened up their books but continued to look at one another and talk.

I managed to struggle my way through 40 minutes of being completely ignored by an entire class of students and was utterly relieved when the bell finally rang at 8:15 at night. I felt absolutely defeated as I walked into the teacher’s office. I threw my things down on my desk (which had finally been provided for me), and marched over to Mona.

“Mona?” I began. “My last class completely ignores me, what can I do to get them in line?”

She sized me up for a few minutes and then told me, “If they act up, give them a warning. If they act up twice, I usually let them stand in a corner for a few minutes.”

This was an idea that had not occurred to me before. It was brilliant. If they were facing the corner of the room, then they could not talk with their friends. I smiled and thanked her and went about my business.

The following Wednesday, I walked into the class and was again greeted by being completely ignored. I marched straight to the board and proceeded to write every student’s name down. As I was writing, I became cognizant of the fact that the entire class had quieted down and were watching me very carefully.

I turned to find eleven pairs of eyes were faced in my direction.

 ”Okay, one,” I said as I held up my pointer finger, “and you get this.” I drew an X by the first name on the list. “Two, and you’re in the corner.” I gave them a moment to let my edict sink in. “Do you understand?”

Although they didn’t say anything, they nodded their heads. Ryan, one of the louder students in the class, turned to his neighbor and muttered something in Korean.

I instantly wrote an X by his name.

“Okay, that’s one.”

He responded by looking down at the table. I opened my book and turned to the daily lesson.

“Okay, turn to page 75.”

Ryan turned to his neighbor and muttered something else in Korean. My response was immediate: I barked three words in rapid succession, “Hey! Ryan! Corner!”

Ryan slowly gathered his things together and walked towards the corner of the room in silence.

Just as I was beginning to think that my strategy was working, one of the other students shouted something in Korean, and the entire class burst into laughter, including Ryan.

My vague façade of control had dissolved almost instantaneously and I was immediately aware of how ridiculous I looked, standing at the head of the class with a vacant look upon my face, wondering what I might possibly do next.

Within a matter of seconds, the entire class had reverted into its original state: gossiping, looking at comic books, and ignoring the strange silent foreigner who was quietly seething. I came to dread my Expressways 2 class, and it was not an unreasonable fear, they were quite terrible.

Still, I decided to avoid bringing in the Gestapo. I felt at some point during my teaching stint, I would have to achieve autonomy or be a complete failure, always seeking the aid of authors to help me because I lacked the authority and strength to do so myself. Also, I was a little scared of Augustus.

My growing fear/dislike of my Expressways 2 class was probably the means by which I came to know the other foreign teachers at my Hawkwan.

At the front of the teacher’s office, Justin, Robin, and Greg sat in close proximity to one another. I was seated facing them and I began to develop a distanced fondness for their antics.

Robin would consistently come to my Hawkwan wearing blue jeans, black chucks, and an assortment of punk rock t-shirts. He was lean back in his chair, facing the teacher’s room and keep a rolling commentary as the various teachers entered the room.

Greg was seated two tables down from Robin, directly next to Jane, a vaguely unattractive Korean teacher who spoke in a rough staccato. The two of them would relentlessly hound Jane as she walked into the teacher’s room every day. Robin would say in his sweetest voice, “Hi Jane, how are you doing today?” To which she would respond my shooting him a dirty look.

She would place her books down at her desk and immediately, Greg would begin hounding her.

“Jane?” He would ask in a tender voice. “Why don’t you ever talk to me?” Feigned dejection would gradually begin evident in his voice as he would ask, “Jane? Why are you ignoring me? Jane?”

Jane would brusquely huff and turn to him and ask, “what?” Her Korean-English would begin with a high pitch and quickly drop in intonation, so that it sounded more like “Waa - uhhht?”

At this point, Robin’s New Zealand accented voice would begin beckoning to Jane: “Jane, will you go out with me? Jane?”

Greg, who would be staring at Jane’s behind at this point, would slowly pan his gaze upwards and tenderly say, “Jane, I just want to be friends.”

Usually by this point, Jane would stomp off towards the bookshelf and Robin and Greg would enjoy a rude cackling laugh together. It was all quite amusing.

Rob, who was seated directly behind me, and Justin, who was seated in front of me would occasionally throw in a crude comment or two. For some reason, they were not overly receptive to my attempts to make friends with them during those first few weeks and it took some prodding on my part to get them to say anything.

When they did talk, all they seemed to do was insist on how bad the conditions were at my Hawkwan, and how much they hated teaching their classes. I avoided buying into their pessimism for as long as I possibly could, a span of about two weeks, but eventually I began to crack as a result of the traumatizing experience that my Expressways class had become.

It was a little difficult for the Korean teachers to empathize with me, seeing as how they managed to somehow keep absolute control over their classes with the greatest of ease, so I inevitably turned towards the dark side of the force.

After our morning classes, Jake and I would sometimes have a cigarette on the back stoop of the school before we headed to the PC-Bang. On the Friday after I had arrived in Seoul, we were standing outside discussing what possible measures I could take to try and gain back at least a small measure of authority in my class. Jake had been telling me how earlier that day, he had taken one unruly student’s bag, and hurled it into the hallway. I was a bit shocked to hear this coming from Jake, especially considering he seemed like such a gentle, passive guy.

At that point, Greg and Justin walked outside and joined us.

“I was just telling Jake how one of my classes is an absolute nightmare,” I told them as Justin lit his cigarette. “How do you guys deal with difficult students?” I asked.

Greg turned his eyes skyward as he pondered the question for several moments before responding, “What was the student doing?”

“Well, it’s pretty much the whole class.” I said, and then quickly added, “There is this one student in particular who just doesn’t do a thing except talk to the other kids during the class.”

“Have you sent him to the corner?” Greg asked.

“Yeah, he just keeps talking.”

Justin, who I had heard say about three words since my arrival in Korea, interjected at this point.

“I carry a marker around and hit the kids on the head with it.”

I looked at him, a bit shocked. “You hit kids on the head with a marker?”

Greg seemed to find my reaction amusing and said, “We can get away with a lot more over here than back West.”

“I can’t believe you hit a kid on the head with a marker!”

Jake chimed in at this point, explaining, “That isn’t nearly as bad as what their Grammar school teachers do to them, or what their parents do to them.” He began to shake his head nervously as he continued, “Sometimes I get kids coming into class with black and blue bruises all over their arms and legs.”

“Sometimes on their face,” Justin added.

“It is just a different standard of punishment over here,” Greg said and for the first time, I noticed a weary, drained look in his eyes. “The kids are used to a lot more than what we expect.”

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